Carp fishing line

What is a carp line?

In 99% of cases the carp line is a hairline or a modified form of it. The hair rig was invented about half a century ago in England. Its peculiarity is that the bait is not on the hook, but on a natural hair tied to the hook. Subsequently, the hair was replaced by a branch of leash material below the hook, but the name of the montage was retained. This made it possible to catch carp that never picked up the bait with the hook. This method of presentation of the bait became one of the foundations for the new fishing movement of the time, which soon became known as “Carpfishing” and gained immense popularity.

Principle of operation of the hair rig

The operation of a hair rig can be broken down into three stages:

1) The fish picks up (sucks up) the nozzle together with the hook

2) Feeling a foreign object (hook and leash) fish spits out the nozzle, the hook at this point turns around and digs into the lower lip.

3) The fish, due to the prick, makes a jerk and pulls the sinker. Self-suspension occurs.

Such a complex operation of the equipment imposes certain requirements on it. First, to the manufacture and compliance with all carp canons. And secondly, to the materials used in the manufacture of the leash.

Leash material

All carp leash material can be conditionally divided into three types:

1) Braided

2) Without braid

3) Fluorocarbon

The main difference between all materials is stiffness and visibility. Fluorocarbon is imperceptible in water, but very stiff. The use of fluorocarbon is justified when fishing on a body of water with clear water. The material without braiding is usually soft, but it is worse pressed to the bottom. And in the braid is stiff and more visible, but better pressed to the bottom and more resistant to abrasion and more conducive to turning the hook at the bite.

Means of attachment of the nozzle

• First of all, these means include the hair itself and all sorts of stoppers, which close the hair, not letting the boyle slip off.
• Also, instead of hair, you can use a microscrew, which is screwed into the nozzle and can be on the hook itself or on the hair.
• It is possible to use a micro swivel, which is put on the hook and fixed with a stopper. And the nozzle is attached with a special thread “floss”. The thread is threaded through the eye of the swivel, the nozzle is strung on the thread. The thread is cut, and the ends are set on fire, forming a stopper.
• In the same way you can attach the nozzle to the micro-ring. Mounting becomes very light and in the water behaves more naturally. A similar principle is often used in Chod or Stiff mounts.

Attaching the leash to the rigging

The leash starts either with a loop of leash material or with a swivel. When using PVA-sticks, it is better to use an ordinary loop, as the swivel will strongly break the stick, and it will not create an “explosion” effect on the bottom.

The leash can be attached with a clip-clasp, on which the cone is then pulled. The cone does not allow the loop to slip off, and the leash to tangle with the leadcore.

Varieties of carp leashes and methods of their use

To date, there are a huge number of variations of carp leashes.

Their main difference is the type of attachment with which the leash can work. At advanced carpolovovov in the leash can be a hundred, or even more leashes. Of course, a beginner carp roper should not immediately stock up on so many. Such an understanding of the equipment is achieved only with practice, and the beginner simply will not see the difference. Also do not immediately try to knit complex montages. The best option will be to choose for yourself two or three, suitable for your conditions. And make several takes with different hooks or different hair length or material thickness.

Classic carp leash

This leash is very simple to make. It has a minimum number of elements. It can be used with any type of bait (when used with floating bait, the leash should be loaded with soft lead, pellet, or core from lidcor). To make this leash is enough to have a leash material and hook. Moreover, the leash material can be replaced by a braid of dark colors with a suitable breaking load. It is possible to supplement the installation with a silicone camcorder on the hook, as well as make a leg of heat shrink.

Blowback rig

The main difference of this rig is the presence of a small ring on the barb of the hook, opposite the stinger. Thanks to this feature, in combination with the Curve Shank, the rig gains additional properties:

1) reduces the hook turning time

2) the boyle, when hooking, starts to work as a counterweight, driving the hook deeper when the fish jerks.

This leash is perfect for catching cautious fish. It works well with a combination of sinking and floating baits. It is suitable for fishing on clean hard bottoms, mud or small vegetation.

KD rig

The main feature of this rig is its position in the water. Thanks to the weight between the hook and the bait, as well as the 90˚ lead of the hair relative to the forend, this rig always takes the correct position in the water when using a floating bait.

This jig is only used with the Curve Shank hook. Excellent for clear bottom or shallow mud. Recommended for use with floating baits, but the rig will work with any other bait.

D rig

D rig allows you to use fluorocarbon, but because of the clever attachment of the nozzle it has freedom of movement. And thanks to the possibility of sliding, there is still the possibility of self-seeding when spitting out. This rig works well with sinking nozzles.

Combination jigs

Each of the leash materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. In an attempt to utilize the maximum advantages of braided and fluorocarbon materials, combined leashes appeared. There are three popular varieties of combination rods:

Combi rig

A rather complex rig, the meaning of which is to move our nozzle away from the sinker with lidkor with the help of a rigid section of fluorocarbon. And thanks to the soft leash material at the end, allow the snap to behave very naturally in the water. This rig can be used on a clean bottom with any type of nozzles.

Reverse combi rig

The advantage of this rig is its lightness. There are no additional fittings in it. Instead of a swivel, a knot is used that connects the fluorocarbon and braided sections. This allows you to catch on silt, in which the swivel Stiff Rig will bind. The tackle is suitable for any type of bottom, except the bottom with dense vegetation. It works only with floating baits.

Supple hair rig

The Supple hair rig is suitable for clear water and shy fish. Its main advantage is its position in the water. Fluorocarbon is completely pressed to the bottom. And the soft hair gives some freedom to the nozzle and allows you to “try” “treats” to carp. In general, the installation is suitable for any type of nozzles. The main disadvantage of the leash is the reduced chance of hooking in case of a fish approach from the back side.

Chod rig

A chod rig designed for fishing on difficult bottoms: deep mud, bottom debris, fallen leaves or dead algae (chod). This assembly is attached directly to the lidcore via a swivel, without additional clasps. The swivel slides over the lidcor, preventing the sinker from dragging the jig deep into the mud, and the leash travel is limited by stoppers. Thanks to the rigidity of the leash, it does not get tangled with the lidcor. And thanks to its curved shape, it always takes the right position in the water. When the jig hits the mouth, the carp immediately feels the rigid leash and makes a jerk, which leads to self-suspension. This installation has gained unprecedented popularity because of its catchability and versatility. Only floating baits are suitable as bait. And it is recommended to first check whether the boyle raises the Chod-section.

Stiff Rig

A modification of the Chod rig with a stiff rig. Sometimes carp are wary of lidcore and sinker. In this rig there is a stiff section which pushes the lead away from the lidcore.

When fishing on a clear bottom, you can shorten the Chod section so that the bait only rises slightly from the bottom.

360 rig

The main feature of the 360 rig is the freedom of movement of the hook. The hook is not constrained by either hair or leash material, and can turn in any direction. Only pop-ups can be used as bait. And it is necessary to check whether its buoyancy is enough for the snap to take the correct position. This jig can be used on hard bottom, mud or a carpet of fallen leaves.

Ronnie rig

The main disadvantage of the 360 rig is that it is more likely to seriously injure fish. The Ronnie rig has the performance of the 360 rig, the rigging is easy to create and not as dangerous to carp. It is suitable only for floating baits.

Fishing tackle for oparychis and a bundle of worms or maggot clip

Sometimes the carp flatly refuses from the bait, which is created by man. At such times, a live component such as an opry or worm comes to the rescue. There are special clips for creating presentations with live baits (Fig. 32 – clips for live baits). With their help, you can present bundles of “meat” on the hair mounting.

There is also a variant of the leash for floating presentation of such nozzles. Such equipment in the water looks like a real “tasty” bouquet for carp.

Zig-rig

This leash is adapted for fishing near the surface or in the water column. It is a long piece of special floating monofilament. And as a bait is used floating foam. This specific type of fishing is often used if there is a “thermocline effect” in the reservoir. When in the upper layers of the water is warm, and in the lower very cold. And the fish stands on the border of these layers.

Hair length

When creating a leash, you should first put on the attachment, and then only tie the hook. In this way we can choose the best hair length. You can use a special tool (Fig. 34) that measures the hair for a specific diameter of the bait. At the worst end, you can simply measure the hair with a ruler (for me a certain standard is to add 3-4mm to the diameter of the nozzle). The minimum length of the hair should be the length at which the boyle can describe the hook’s underside without hitting it. Otherwise it will prevent the hook from turning.

Checking the leash “by hand”

There is a simple method of checking the performance, which is suitable for most installations, it is the “by hand” test.

To check, we need to place the leash on the palm of the hand so that the hook is against the ring finger, and then pull the leash by the loop.

If the hook unfolded and caught in the palm of the hand, it means that the leash is tied successfully and can bring fish. If the leash did not turn, it means that during the installation of mistakes were made and the leash should be redone. Otherwise, you can not wait for a nibble or get a frustrating failure when removing the rod from the rack – the hook will simply slip out of the mouth. Such a check does not guarantee 100% hooking. But it does guarantee that our leash is tied correctly and that the hook will turn when the bite occurs.

Storage and transportation

Leashes should be stored in special boxes – leash boxes. In them, the leash is not in contact with objects that can damage it, and hooks are not dull. Also, the leash is in a taut position and over time acquires the ideal shape.

For Chod type leashes there are special leash holders that maintain the necessary bend of the leash. Usually, they are also suitable for storing long Zig-rig ropes.

Throughout the fishing world the leash is given special importance. In each type of fishing the leash has its own specific functions. For example, when fishing for pike, it prevents the fish from biting the line. And when catching cautious fish, such as trout or chub, the leash masks the last meter of line.

In carpfishing leash is the main part of the whole carp assembly, which is assigned a number of tasks: the leash must be invisible to the fish, beautifully located with the bait on the bottom, must hold the fish after the bite, must contribute to the turn of the hook and hooking, as well as do not injure the fish when fishing. All these functions can be combined in one word – efficiency. The main thing in the leash is its ability to bring fish. And the more correctly it is created and more consciously chosen, the more fish it will allow you to bring to the net, take pictures and release.