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Image 1 : Jerking. Where to start.

If you are interested in jerking, you are here. So, you decided that the object of the hunt will be a pike, and not just a pike, but a large and trophy. Here I will try to briefly and without unnecessary water to tell about where to start.

The first set for a beginner jerk, so as not to instill an immediate aversion to this type of fishing, should be reliable, lightweight and inexpensive.

In jerk fishing, as in spinning, there is a division of gear by class. This division is dictated by the mass of baits used: light, medium and heavy. Heavy or heavy is a class where baits of about 200 grams are used. Medium (medium) about 100 grams, and all that is less, can be conditionally attributed to the light class, that is, to the light. You should start with light. With light jerkbaits it is easier to master the technique of throwing, animation and so on.

First jerkbait


Image 2 : Jerking. Where to start.

Your first jerkbait should definitely be a legendary slider from the Polish company Salmo called Slider 10. Many who began to get into jerking started with it. As an alternative for a beginner jerkbait can take Strike Pro Buster Jerk II or Bomber Herky Jerky Jr. These are very docile, catchable and predictable lures – gliders.

Jerkbait Salmo Slider 10 exists in floating and sinking version, and has a weight of 36 and 46 grams respectively. Under such weights and need to select the first jerk rod. Test range of the spinning rod for such weights should be in the region of 20-80 grams. Spinning with such a test range will also be able to animate any large lures, as large 130th wobblers, and heavy jig heads and other lures. Thus, the jerk rod becomes a versatile tool for fishing any large and heavy lures.

Jerk rods


Image 3 : Jerking. Where to start.

Jerk rods come in one-piece, one and a half-piece and two-piece. What are they?

A one-piece rod is one-piece and does not fold up, its transport length corresponds to your height. The pros are that it usually has a wider test range for lures, and it is more reliable. The downside is that it is not very convenient to transport.

Two-part fishing rod has two parts connected to each other. Pros – compactness. Minuses – low reliability of the connection especially affects the use of large weights of baits, this applies to medium and heavy jerking.

Image 4 : Jerking. Where to start.

A one and a half rod is a half solution. In it, the blank is one-piece and the handle is removable. The blank is inserted directly into the handle.

Spinning. Spinning is needed inexpensive, not particularly long and light. The length of the spinning classically recommended to choose equal to the growth of the fisherman, well or approximately equal. At my height of 170 my first stick was only 160 centimeters long. It was very light and it was possible to swing it tirelessly for hours on end, which undoubtedly had a positive effect on the study of bait animation.

For example, my first jerk spinning rods were: two-part rod Stinger ProJerk BJ532XH with length of 1.6 meters and test 21-70 grams and one-part Agat Northern Pike NPJ-57D with length of 1.74 meters and test 20-100 grams. The price of these spinning rods is not higher than 3 thousand rubles.

From here you can see how much the test range of the single-part rod is wider.
Nevertheless, initially these spinning rods were purchased for the use of Salmo Slider 10 bait.

Enrouleur


Image 5 : Jerking. Where to start.

Amultiplier reel should be reliable and simple, and preferably inexpensive. Those who can immediately afford to buy, for example, Swedish Abu Garcia for a tidy sum – it is very good. Because the firm Abu Garcia is a trendsetter and a sign of quality of multiplier reels. In terms of reliability Swedish multiplier from Abu Garcia can be compared with a Kalashnikov. But for a beginner jerk reel can be recommended inexpensive and easy to operate reel like Stinger ProJerk PJ250. For small weights and for the beginning of mastering jerk fishing it is enough.

Image 6 : Jerking. Where to start.

Multiplier reels are available for left and right handed anglers. If you are already spinning with a non-inertial reel, then what hand you twist the handle of a non-inertial reel, most likely the same hand you are comfortable to twist the handle of the multiplier. If you’re not spinning yet, watch videos of Japanese and Americans fishing. They almost always use reels with reeling with the right hand. For some reason we have left-handed reels. Go to the store and hold a spinning reel in your hand, determine which reel you will be more comfortable for the left or right hand. It’s just a matter of habit and convenience. A multiplier reel for jerk tackle should have sufficient fishing line capacity and good pulling power. The cords used are thick, and they must fit on the spool. Good pulling power of the reel is necessary for using heavy baits. The load on the reel is heavy and it must be able to cope with it. The ratio of the gear ratio of the reel should be chosen no more than 5.4:1.

Cordon


Image 7 : Jerking. Where to start.

The cord for the jerk multiplier reel should have a high breaking load. For baits weighing up to 100 grams, you can use cords with a breaking test of 25 kg and a diameter of 0.35 mm. There are no special requirements for the cord. It is not particularly important how many strands it consists of and whether it is round in cross-section. On the range of throwing, for example, the thickness of the cord does not affect. The main thing that it was strong.
Personally, I use an inexpensive cord with a diameter of 0.4 mm. with a breaking load of 36 kg. This is enough to bring out a large trophy and at the snag to raskorchevat snags and pull the bait out of the snag.

Winding the cord on the bobbin of a multiplier reel


Image 8 : Jerking. Where to start.

The reel is always indicated on the spool, what diameter of fishing line, how much is placed on the spool. The bobbin should be filled with cord entirely, so that up to the edge remained no more than 0.5 millimeters. If the cord is not enough to completely fill the bobbin, it is necessary to wind the backing. Backing is a part of non-main fishing line, which is initially wound on the spool so that the main cord fills the spool up to the edge. The backing and the main cord are connected with a knot.

The knot that fixes the fishing line on the bobbin of the multiplier reel.

Winding the fishing line should occur under a uniform, not strong tension. It is better to wind the cord on the reel, setting it on the spinning and passing the cord through several rings.

Leash


Image 9 : Jerking. Where to start.

When catching pike, it is necessary to use a leash. No matter how strong the cord is, the pike with its razor-sharp teeth can easily cut it. To avoid losing the bait because of cuts, it is necessary to use a leash of material that the pike will not cut. The leash can be made of metal string twist, purchased titanium leash(Contact Jerkbait Titanium 100 Lb 30 cm), or a leash made of thick fluorocarbon (SIG-FC 50m 0.6mm). Each of these leash options has its advantages and disadvantages.

Image 10 : Jerking. Where to start.

The first is a metal string. Metal string can be purchased in the store, and make yourself with ingenious devices.

The advantages of such a leash is reliability, simplicity, as well as cheapness. The disadvantage of such a leash can be an increase in the total mass of the bait, that is, if the bait of neutral buoyancy, with a thick leash will sink.

Second, a leash made of titanium string. Such a leash is very light and has almost no effect on the lure. With any deformation of the leash, the leash is pulled again in a pristine straight state. Disadvantages – high price.

Image 11 : Jerking. Where to start.

Leashes made of metal in the water is quite noticeable and sometimes pike does not attack the bait because of the visibility of the leash. Then a leash of thick fluorocarbon comes to the rescue. It is invisible in the water. It is connected to the cord through a swivel, soldered ring or knitted directly to the cord without any connecting elements, which undoubtedly increases the reliability of the tackle as a whole. Thick fluorocarbon from 0.5 mm from the first time pike will not cut. These leashes, you can say, disposable, after each attack of pike need to check the integrity of the fluorocarbon leash. No burrs and nicks on it, otherwise the leash must be changed. Fluorocarbon leash is tied to the main braided line directly with special knots, such as Carrot or Albright.

Clasp


Image 12 : Jerking. Where to start.

The clasp(Double Insurance Special Long Snap #2) must be reliable, compact and suitable for the required breaking load. A crown ring can be used in place of the clasp. It is stronger than the clasp and cannot come undone under any circumstances. When using a crown instead of a clasp, it is easy to change lures if you always have a pair of pliers with a spike.

Adjusting the multiplier reel


Before you cast a lure, you need to adjust the brake system of the multiplier reel.

Image 13 : Jerking. Where to start.

The braking system can be centrifugal, magnetic and axial (in the form of an axial brake).

It is considered that the brake is adjusted correctly, if you hold the spinning horizontally, disarm the reel, while the bait should fall to the ground without creating on the bobbin spool cord runs. Such adjustment should be made after changing the lure to a different weight. In the future when casting you will learn to slow down the spool with the thumb of your hand. There is no need to be afraid of beards formed when throwing with unadjusted brakes. There are videos on the internet dedicated to unraveling beards on a multiplier reel. It is not difficult, the thicker cord is much easier to untangle than a thin one. Properly adjust the brake, make a smooth cast, control the spool with your finger and there will be no beards!

Throwing technique


Once the brake is adjusted, you can cast the bait into the water. The button is used to release the spool of the reel, the thumb of the hand holds the spool. Spinning is taken back and a smooth throw is made from behind the head or from the side, whoever is comfortable. Throwing should be smooth. First throw not far, then gradually increase the distance of throwing. There are many videos on the Internet dedicated to the technique of throwing.

Animation of the bait


Image 14 : Jerking. Where to start.

Jerking in English means jerk, jerking. In the classic version of jerkbait wiring is carried out when the angler directs the rod down to the water and makes blows with the rod vertically towards the water with simultaneous winding of the reel. The strokes are quite aggressive, forcing the bait to play. It swings from side to side making glides, concerning Salmo Slider 10. In general, the wiring is similar to twitching, but only with large, heavy lures. To understand the game of a particular jerkbait, it is necessary to chase it near the shore in clear water to understand what manipulations of the rod as the bait responds. Memorize these movements and repeat them after throwing and bringing the lure far away in the fishing spot. On sinking jerkbait expedient to catch in deep places, and on floating in shallow water. There are some conventional rules for working with jerkbaits and with the tackle in general, but with experience comes understanding, and develop your own style, is an approach to this or that lure. There is no need to fixate on the rules. Any improvisation is welcome. The right is the one who catches.

Maintenance


The tackle should be treated with care, do not put the reel in the sand and do not dip it in the water. If water or sand gets into the reel, it should be cleaned and lubricated. There are specialized centers and individual craftsmen who repair and maintain reels. With certain skills, maintenance can be done by yourself at home.

Conclusion


Image 15 : Jerking. Where to start.

On the jerk tackle bites not only big fish, but, unfortunately, also small fish. The object of pike hunting are fish up to 1/10 of the pike’s weight. Thus, a kilogram pike can easily swallow a 100 gram jerk. And Slider 10 calmly eat and half a kilogram pike. But rest assured, if there is a trophy specimen in the reservoir, then, all other things being equal, he will prefer your large jerk to other small lures. You can walk around the reservoir all day long, watching how ultralight fans strangle laces, and wait for the only nibble of the day, catching a decent pike specimen.

When you learn to catch pike on Slider 10, then you can immediately begin to develop further, move to more voluminous and heavy baits, and you can use other types of jerk baits: pullbait, gliders, divers, twitchbait, swimbaits and others.

There are a lot of baits and for their fishing conditions, you can always find the best jerkbait. Catching pike on these lures is very sporty, exciting and spectacular.

Auteur : Bob Nudd est un pêcheur expert qui a plus de 20 ans d'expérience et qui a remporté de nombreux concours.

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Commentaires: 1
  1. Rayan McLeod

    Dude, if you’re thinking about starting to jerk, just go for it! It’s all about finding your groove. Start slow, learn what feels good, and don’t stress. Trust me, once you hit your rhythm, it’s a game changer! Just keep it chill and enjoy the ride!

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