Let’s agree right away that we are now considering spinning tackle. There is also casting tackle (with a multiplier), which we also often call “spinning”. In other words, below we will talk only about inertia-free spinning reels. We will consider multipliers another time.
When a fisherman faces the question of choosing a non-inertial reel, he must decide for himself on several points, namely: size, weight, fishing line capacity, gear ratio, the location of the friction brake, the presence or absence of an additional spool, belonging to a particular brand and, finally, the price.
Price tag
The last point, however, deserves to be put in the first place. Usually we start from the amount we can afford, and then we decide all other issues. So let’s start with the financial aspect. How to choose a reel by price?
To a person far from fishing, all spinning reels seem almost the same. It is impossible for him to understand why one reel costs 1000 rubles, and another – almost 100000? Actually, and more or less experienced angler such a price “fork” seems absurd. Well, at least because for a hundred thousand it is realistic to buy an old, but the car on the move … And here – some reel.
Let’s not take into account coils with a frankly “anti-people” price tag. I will simply limit myself to noting that they do not have any super advantages. For the absolute majority of us the question of “financial” choice lies in the range of about two to ten – fifteen thousand rubles.
At the moment we can say that the reels of the most budget level (it is somewhere 2-4 thousand rubles.) are quite workable and with careful operation in the mode of fishing “weekend” are designed for several seasons. Years 10 and more ago, the corresponding price segment, just with regard to spinning, was, you could say, failed. Then cheap reels were suitable for fishing rod, bottom fishing rod, etc., but not for spinning. But in recent years the budget manufacturer has risen a lot both structurally and in terms of performance.
What do we get if we increase the price tag by two or three times? It would not be quite right to think that the reel’s service life will also increase by the same amount. Although we are entitled to certain expectations in this respect. Reels in the price segment of 5-10 thousand rubles, it is, as a rule, less weight, plus – smoother (due to the number and quality of bearings) stroke. I myself, by the way, most often fish with reels of this price range. Which is probably very indicative.
Size and weight
There is no single system reflecting the size of spinning reels, which would be adhered to by their manufacturers. But there is the so-called “thousandth” scale, which is the most common. The essence is as follows. Base sizes are designated by thousandth indices. For example, 1000 is ultralight, 2500 – class from medium-light to medium, 4000 – medium-heavy and heavy classes. In the first approximation it should be clear to a beginner. Somewhat more difficult to understand are the “non-round” designations. For example, how should we perceive the size of the reel 2004, which is available from Daiwa and some others? In fact, this reel has the size 2000, only equipped with a low-capacity spool, designed for thin braided cords. Therefore, in order not to make a mistake in the choice, pay attention to such a parameter as the fishing line capacity of the spool. If you intend to catch only on braid, then reels with emphasized capacity spools (for example, the size 2500 and 200 m / 0.25 mm) should be considered in the second place.
By the way, the size 2500 can be called the most universal. If your goal is to cover the maximum range of bait weights and sizes with one reel, you should prefer it.
The weight of the reel, of course, is also important. The upper value of the weight of the reel for spinning tackle depending on its “power class” can be labeled approximately as follows. Ultralight (UL) – 200 g, Light (L) – 230 g, Medium-Light (ML) – 260 g, Medium (M) – 275 g, Medium-Heavy (MH) – 300 g, Heavy (H) – 350 g. The lower value is usually not specified, but the underlying assumption is “the smaller the better” – of course, while maintaining the power parameters. That’s why many of the more expensive reels are made of very light, but strong and durable materials. This is all well and good, but we must not forget about the balance of the tackle: a powerful, heavy rod does not always go well with a powerful but lightweight reel.
Reduction
The reduction ratio or gear ratio is how many turns of line the reel puts on the spool for one turn of the handle. The average value is 5.0:1 or so. Reels with a significantly lower gear ratio are considered power, with a higher – speed. For the spinningist “wide profile” is optimal average reduction. Extremes are better to exclude.
Friction brake
About 20 years ago, up to a third of spinning reels had a friction brake placed at the back. Now the share of “rear-friction” reels in spinning has decreased to a few percent. They, in principle, are still mass produced, but they are used more in float and bottom fishing. Why so?
The rear friction has two advantages over the front. This is a slightly greater convenience of operational regulation and the complete elimination of “self-tightening” (when the rotating bobbin entrains the nut of the regulator). However, these two pluses are interrupted by one minus: the front friction is smoother and is not prone to “sticking”, that is, better handles sharp jerks. For spinning with the priority of braided cords is very important. Therefore, if the question arises: front friction or rear friction, choose the front one. Especially since there is an absolute majority of such reels nowadays.
Laying
The use of braided cords and jerky methods of wiring impose quite strict requirements on the quality of winding the cord on the bobbin. Without going into details, the winding should be as smooth as possible without bumps and dips. The quality of winding can hardly be assessed in advance. But it is useful to ask on any active fishing forum about the reel you intend to choose.
There are so-called “closed” reels without inertia, in which the bobbin is covered with a special protective cap.
Spare spool
If the reel comes with an extra bobbin, then most of us perceive it as a kind of bonus. Especially if the spare spool differs from the main one in terms of fishing line capacity. Buying such a reel, we get as if “two in one”.
But not everything here is simple and obvious. First of all, an extra spool is an addition to the price tag. On average, about twenty percent. Secondly, the wear of the mechanism of the reel is the same – whether we catch constantly with one spool or alternate two. Before buying a reel, consider whether it is worth overpaying for a spare spool?
“Brandability”
Very often in making a decision to buy not only a reel, but also, say, any product of household appliances, the determining factor in the choice is the brand name under which this very product is produced. If the brand, as it is called, on the rumor, the probability that the purchase will take place, significantly higher than in the case when its name does not say anything. At the same time, we often realize that we overpay for a promoted brand. We are willing to overpay largely because we perceive brand awareness as a kind of informal guarantee of quality.
Applied to our current topic, it means this. There are expensive brands on the fishing market. For example, reels Daiwa and Shimano. About them, perhaps, heard almost everyone who at least a little fishing and is interested in tackle. And such reels are more tempting for many of us. But it should be understood that these brands are exactly expensive. The share of “markup for the brand” in the products of Shimano and Daiwa is somewhat more than others. What follows from the above? And that if we touch the medium-expensive or expensive segment, the question of choice is reduced to the reels of these two “elite” brands. But in the more budgetary segments I would orient you to more “popular” brands. It can be, for example, Stinger or Select, which have proven themselves from a good side. The case when it is better not to overpay…..
How to choose a non-inertial reel for a beginner-spinningist of a wide profile?
1. Price category of the reel. If you are a “weekend” angler and serious loads on the tackle is not expected, you can choose a non-inertial reel costing 2000 – 4000 rubles. For example, the series Stinger ForceAge XW. For more frequent and intensive use, a model from 5 000 to 10 000 is better suited. To this price category belongs Legalis-12 2500 from Daiwa.
2. The size of the non-inertial reel. Depends on the type of fishing. The higher the value, the heavier the class: 1000 is ultralight, 2500 – medium-light and medium, 4000 – medium-heavy, etc. Pay attention to the fishing line capacity of the spool. The universal size for a beginner is 2500. It allows you to cover the maximum range of baits and weights.
3. O weight of the reel. Depends on the type of fishing. It is chosen according to the principle “the smaller the better”, but without loss of strength. Should correspond to the weight of the rod.
4. Gear ratio or reduction. Optimum for beginners average value of 5.0:1 (with small deviations +/-).
5. Friction brake reel for spinning – front, it works better jerks.
6. Laying the line should be as even as possible. It is better to rely on the experience of other anglers in the use of a particular reel or expert opinion.
7. Spare spool. It is convenient for using fishing line (cords) of different diameters. Its presence in the package does not affect the life of the reel, but as a rule, increases the cost.
8. Brand of o carretel. Budget category: Stinger or Select. Higher price segment – Daiwa and Shimano.
9. Indices and abbreviations.
Both beginners and even pros when choosing a reel for spinning are faced with different kinds of abbreviations. Since there is no single classification, each brand may have its own abbreviations. We offer a cheat sheet of possible indices:
Most commonly found in different manufacturers:
Abbreviation | Brand | Meaning |
BF and FS | presence of a baiter system | |
BR | Salmo | |
DH | double handle | |
FD | front friction | |
RD | rear friction | |
S | small bobbin | |
SS | super fine bobbin | |
LR | Mitchell | low gear ratio |
Shimano reel index
Abbreviations can be combined in the model name.
Abbreviation | Abbreviation | Meaning |
С | compact body | compact body (usually written before the size digit) |
DH | double handle | double handle |
HG | high gear | high gear |
XG | extra gear | extra gear |
PG | power gear | power gear |
S | shallow spool | shallow spool |
SS | super shallow spool | very fine spool |
M | medium deep spool | medium deep spool |
SW | salt water | salt water capability |
Daiwa reel index
Abbreviation | Deciphering | Meaning | |
Spool type | D | deep | deep bobbin |
S | shallow | shallow | |
Without index (e.g. 2500) – medium capacity (standard) | |||
Caso | C | compact | compact housing |
Gear ratio | P | power | power coil |
H | alta | high ratio | |
XH | high speed reel | ||
No index (e.g. 3000) – standard gear ratio (average 5.0:1 to 5.9:1) |
Autor: Bob Nudd é um pescador experiente com mais de 20 anos de experiência e vencedor de muitas competições.
Choosing a non-inertial reel can be a game-changer! I remember snagging one for tidal fishing, and it made the setup so smooth. Gotta love how it helps with precision and control. Definitely worth the investment for serious anglers! Happy fishing, everyone!