<\/span><\/h2>\n \n <\/span><\/p>\nFirst of all, this topic of choice is usually raised by novice anglers<\/em><\/p>\nI will start by trying to explain in simple words what is accepted and in general can be considered budget reels in the general sense. Taking into account modern realities, and not only our local, which is important to understand, the budget segment includes inertia-free reels with prices up to 15000 rubles and even a little higher. I realize that it will shock someone, but in this world the fishing tackle market is led by Japan and the USA, and it is under this standard of living that goods are calculated, including fishing reels. Therefore, do not think that buying a reel for 10-15 thousand, you acquire some expensive and perfect tool. Alas, but it will be quite ordinary product, with a certain limited resource, designed for sale to proletarians and pensioners of countries with a high standard of living, which they after a couple or three seasons painlessly for their wallet will replace the same, but in a new design. And reels of lower price segment are designed mainly for beginner anglers from among teenagers or for weekend anglers that are fishing once a month or a couple of times a year, on vacation.<\/p>\n
Further, it is probably worth conditionally dividing budget reels into directly budget and, so to speak, super-budget. To these super-budget can be attributed almost all the cheapest inertia-free reels with a price of up to three or four thousand rubles. Reels of this type are little different from each other, they compete with each other except in design and in the number of problems and shortcomings, that is, it is essentially disposable products, in the upgrade and improvement of which should not get involved under any circumstances, because all the materials from which to assemble such things, the lowest and cheapest level, and in the assembly of such mechanisms are designed for the shortest period of use, miracles do not happen, at least not where the money is spinning.<\/p>\n
<\/span>Different approach to production<\/span><\/h2>\n \nThe technologies, materials, human resources and means involved in the design and production – all this strongly depends on the place of production and the general standard of living in this place. That’s why so far Chinese comrades offer us reels cheaper than Japanese ones, and the Japanese are forced to move the production of their budget reels to other countries, and European and American brands have long been producing their reels exclusively in Asian countries. It should be understood when in some store or in an advertising booklet you try to tell about American, Italian, German, French, Polish or any other European production of this or that modern reel. It would be more correct to talk about design, which really takes place among American and some European brands. Especially the Swedish company Abu Garcia stands out with its own original developments .<\/p>\n
Japanese reels are assembled, except Japan itself, in Malaysia, Vietnam, China and Indonesia at Japanese facilities and under Japanese control. In China there are several factories assembling reels based on Japanese designs, both under their own name and on order for brands from the USA and Europe. Taiwan has its own production of reels, again under its own brand and to order for brands from different countries, they appeared before the reels from China and have already made a good name for themselves, having their own developments, it is Okuma and Tica. In Korea, the development and production of reels has long been engaged in the company Banax.<\/p>\n
But here is what is characteristic, almost only Japanese brands Shimano and Daiwa offer us spare parts for their reels, which sometimes helps to extend the life of these reels or just quickly replace the lost for any reason part, which can not be said about most of the other companies. You have to agree that having sunk the friction nut when replacing the bobbin and not being able to buy the same one, it is somehow unpleasant to throw away a new reel, even if it is not very expensive. Although some representatives of companies are setting up the supply of spare parts, which can not but please, for example, our budget brand Stinger in this is definitely ahead of others.<\/p>\n
<\/span>Preparation for a choice<\/span><\/h2>\n \nAs for the possibilities of upgrading budget coils, it is also worth to disperse different harmful “cockroaches” in some particularly hot heads, because you should firmly realize that in the case of “pumping” some of your Fuego it will not be possible to “finish” it to the level of Certate. Every reel model has a certain potential, depending on the materials of its body, all its parts and the overall quality and accuracy of its production and assembly. Therefore, you should never turn a useful coil upgrade into an expensive, useless tuning. A useful upgrade to a new reel is to replace cheap plastic or metal bushings with bearings in those parts where it will really help the reel to work better and really extend its life somewhat. Usually it’s the handle knob, bobbin assembly and sometimes the spool roller. But all this is worth it if the reel is a decent, albeit budget design, and not a super-budget disposable product, which no tuning will not help to live longer than the manufacturer’s allotted period of a few fishing trips.<\/p>\n
Now, when we have understood for ourselves, where what grows in the world of fishing reels, dispelled various myths and fictions, in general, got rid of all sorts of unnecessary “cockroaches” in the head, you can meaningfully move on to the choice of inertia-free reel budget type. What to pay attention to when choosing in the first place, what is better to refrain from or prefer?<\/p>\n
<\/span><\/p>\nYou should be firmly aware that in the case of “pumping” some of your Fuego you will not be able to “finish” it to the level of Certate<\/em><\/p>\n<\/span>Steps of choice<\/span><\/h2>\n \nIt is worth remembering at once about the basic types of kinematic schemes, which have been worked out long ago, on the basis of which all modern open-type inertia-free motors function. There are two of them:<\/p>\n
1. crank-crank transmission scheme, popularly more often referred to as a rocker, planetary or steam locomotive;<\/p>\n
2. a transmission scheme based on an “endless screw”, otherwise known as a worm gear (WORM SHAFT).<\/p>\n
<\/span><\/p>\nMore often than not, the housings of such coils are made of all sorts of plastics and graphite composites<\/em><\/p>\nSo, it is not necessary to fixate on the type of its transmission when choosing a coil, at least not for a beginner. Today, both schemes in reels work equally well, perfectly coping with the laying of braided cords and mono fishing lines. In general, it is not the mechanical device of the reel that decides everything, but the quality with which this device is realized. And that’s why the question of internal mechanics system when choosing a reel we put aside as absolutely unnecessary. Although six or seven years ago I would have argued on this topic, but times change and so does technology.<\/p>\n
The material of the coil body. You should not think about it when choosing a budget coil. Most often the bodies of such reels are made of various kinds of plastics and graphite composites, metal bodies in the budget segment are found less and less often, especially in new models, although the old ones still have them, as on Ryobi Excia and Zauber. Of the new ones I can remember Daiwa Lexa and Mitchell MX-9, for example.<\/p>\n
An undoubted plus in modern budget reels has become more and more often used in them the device of fixing the handle by threaded connection with the axis of the drive gear. When choosing a reel such a device should be given preference over others due to greater reliability.<\/p>\n
<\/span><\/p>\nWhen choosing a reel, such a device should be preferred over others because of its greater reliability<\/em><\/p>\nIf, however, due to circumstances, your choice fell on a reel with a handle on the usual hexagon, then examine carefully the handle for the presence and quality of the fixing teeth on it, which enter the grooves of the gear on the axis of the main gear, ideally they should be metal, because plastic is quite easy to scratch out.<\/p>\n
Knob ideally should rotate on bearings, at least one, but on budget reels this element is often not disassembled at all, so it can not even be modernized. That’s why we consider a collapsible knob to be the preferred option when choosing a reel. Even if it rotates on bushings made of metal or plastic, you can replace them at any time with bearings.<\/p>\n
<\/span><\/p>\nThere are some models of reels with a successful device of the roller, working on bushings<\/em><\/p>\nThe fishing line roller is, of course, preferable on a bearing. This node is very important, especially if we catch using braided cords. In the store you are unlikely to be allowed to disassemble the reel, so at home immediately disassemble and carefully check the work of this node, in the case of problems with the lack of a bearing or the impossibility of replacing the bushing on it to collect and carry the reel back to the store, to change to another model. Yes, there are some models of reels with a successful device of the roller, working on the bushings, but I met such only on the reels Shimano and Daiwa, but in them this node was very demanding to care and lubrication, so you should give preference to the roller on the bearing, especially when choosing a reel to work with thin cords.<\/p>\n
<\/span><\/p>\nAbout the internal structure of the reel can be judged by the explosion diagram attached to it, and the quality of the internal parts can be learned only by disassembling it<\/em><\/p>\nWhen selecting in the store check the ease of running the reel and smoothness of rotation of the rotor and the work of the friction, inspect the entire body for the quality of the overall assembly, check the backlash in the handle, the clear operation of the mechanism of locking and resetting the shackle, the switch stopper backstroke (if available). The internal structure of the reel can be judged by the explosion diagram attached to it, and the quality of internal parts can only be found out by disassembling it, which is not possible for everyone. We can only hope that all the bearings and bushings indicated in the diagram are in their proper places. The main thing is that the most important parts of the reel should be equipped with bearings.<\/p>\n
Ideally, the minimum of bearings in the reel is as follows – two support bearings on the drive pinion axle, two support bearings on the driven pinion (pinyon), and one in the fishing line roller. This minimum of five bearings in the right places will allow the reel to last a very long time, despite the lack of additional bearings in less important parts that do not experience heavy loads. Of course, if these five bearings are supplemented by two bearings in the spool and at least one in the spool assembly, it will be a great set for the longest life of the reel. If the reel will have a couple or two more bearings – on the rocker gear, on the rocker carriage or endless, in the spool or in the roller, it is even better, but in budget reels it is not often found and certainly not in the market leaders.<\/p>\n
<\/span><\/p>\nWe can only hope that all the bearings and bushings mentioned in the diagram are in their proper places<\/em><\/p>\nAfter a meticulous inspection and counting the bearings in the right places, the reel at home should be checked to see how it lays the cord and whether the adjusting washers (if there are any in the kit) help to make it lay evenly. If there are problems with the laying, it is better to exchange the reel for another model, than to suffer with different dances around this one.<\/p>\n
<\/span><\/p>\nIf styling is a problem, it is better to exchange the spool for another model<\/em><\/p>\nYou should not put off trying the reel on the fishing rod, because sometimes there are reels whose legs are difficult to fit into the reel holder due to the excessive thickness of their support pads. Such a reel should also be returned to the seller, so that you don’t have to deal with a file later.<\/p>\n
<\/span><\/p>\nTrying the reel on the rod should not be delayed either<\/em><\/p>\nFriction brakes in modern reels of the budget segment usually work quite reliably, even if they consist of only one or two felt washers, the main thing is not to forget to check and lubricate them from time to time.<\/p>\n
<\/span><\/p>\nFriction brakes in modern reels of the budget segment usually work quite reliably<\/em><\/p>\nActually, such are the realities today in the environment of budget reels and such an easy choice among them. The main thing is to immediately discard all unnecessary information and focus on the main thing – a decent manufacturer, bearings in the right places, clear and smooth operation of nodes, good laying of cords and fishing lines, compatibility with your fishing rods. Useful bonuses – threaded handle, collapsible knob, possibility of upgrade with replacement of bushings with bearings, availability of spare parts.<\/p>\n\n\n
F\u00f6rfattare: Bob Nudd<\/a> \u00e4r en expertfiskare med \u00f6ver 20 \u00e5rs erfarenhet och vinnare av m\u00e5nga t\u00e4vlingar.<\/em><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"The question of choosing the most common type of fishing reels – open-type non-inertial reels – can perhaps be called the most pressing among others. Especially if you have to choose among inexpensive devices, this segment is usually called budget, although this very budget may not be as modest as many would like. First of […]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":5016,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-185","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","","category-spinning"],"yoast_head":"\n
Choosing a non-inertial reel in the budget segment: how not to make a mistake? | reviews for fishing<\/title>\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\t \n\t \n\t \n \n \n \n\t \n\t \n\t \n